Today, we travelled to Polonorruwa - the capital of Sri Lanka at one point of time. If you ever want a preview of what Hell feels like, go there. The weather is unbearably hot and dripping humid – temperatures hovered around an unbearable 38 degrees( CELSIUS) throughout. The afternoon sun didn’t help much either. There was not one pore of my body that wasn’t sweating during the entire time. God’s sense of humour must have been working overtime during era Polonnrauwa was built because this city is also home to perhaps the largest man-made lake in SL. Built decades of centuries ago for to provide water for the dry farmlands, this lake now stands a serene blue expanse, brimming with shimmering liquid. It took all my willpower not to toss my clothes and jump into the invitingly cool waters. That and the fact that I would break my bones jumping out of a speeding car.
Like Sigriya, Polonorruwa has an acient history. King Parakramabanu created the lake and built the giant citadel as well. Unfortunately, later conquests and Mother Nature have destroyed most of the palace and the ancient city. What are left are a few viharas , a giant statue of an erudite sage and 3 large statues of Buddha. All carbed into the fucking rock!
Walking among the ruins of the city, we realized how much effort must have been put in these cities. The ruins have stood the test of time which is further proof of the craftsmanship devoted to them. I was awestruck walking through them, almost transported to a different time. Looking at the statues, noticed the intricate details carved into the rock – the painstaking detail in minarets, Buddha’s curly coif, his serene expression must have taken several hours of manpower to chisel. Even then, the mind could not fathom the beauty of this long-forgotten city. It’s at times like these that I wish our brilliant scientists would hurry up and create a time machine so that I go back in time and see the grandeur of the cities in their hey-day.
AS if the heat wasn’t enough, the artisans in these cities have taken a special pleasure to build staircases EVERYWHERE. It seems like we have just been climbing up and down, up and down stairs for the last two days. Of course, not to be outdone, the Archeological Society of Sri Lanka has happily placed more marble stairs, in every place the ancient artisans have overlooked.
As with all great travels, we lost our way on the journey back. Don’t ask me how, I was asleep. That’s another thing, I seem have developed an infinite capacity to sleep on this trip. Put me in a whirring car or plane and I am promptly comatose.
But wherever it was that we took a wrong turn, it took us straight into the heart of spice gardens of Nalanda – don’t get too excited like I did. The gardens are hardly anything like lavish tea plantations that we have seen Aamir prancing about in. I expected aromas of cinnamon, basil, mint and more to fill the air but sadly, that was not so. Just spice shrubs growing in pots or rising from the earth all over the place. Moreover, I was informed that if I tried to buy some “authentic” spices from these gardens, I was twice as likely to be thugged and sold spices at “paryatak”(tourist) rates.
The only good thing about being a “paryatak” in SL, was that our car was not stopped at any of the checkpoints all the way to Colombo. It seems that the strife with the LTTE has cost SL dearly, with tourism taking a nose-dive. So, the army has been recruiting public speaking classes for its jawans so that they may learn to speak in a polite and friendly way. There is also the uncommunicated understanding that tourists are to be minimally harassed. So, with a quick check of our IDs, we were sent off at the first checkpoint.
Only to be stopped again 15 minutes later. Memories of my Texan/Mexican adventure flashed in my mind. That time I didn’t even have a passport on me. I clung to it dearly as a silent prayer escaped my lips – let this trip not turn ugly, please. The dude in fatigues looked at my passport, asked me India? As I weakly nodded, my eyes as wide as a deer dazed by headlights, he smiled at me. A thousand watt, flashing smile that reassured me all was well.
We came home all exhausted and had a hearty dinner where a second helping zinged its way onto my plate, catching me unawares. Aunty B! My bloated stomach pleaded mercy but Mothers, you can’t win against them, na? My eyes are drooping shut and I shall now happily collapse into bed. Sweet dreams!
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