Shopping in a different world.

“Hello, excuse me Madam. Just 2 minutes..”
“Yes, Cds, mobilephones, covers, yes ma’am...”
“Last offer..”
These are some of familiar calls you will hear in the many bazaars that abound in India. Welcome to the world of hawking. A world that thrives on the cobblestone pavements of South Mumbai. A world that yawns its way through the day before coming alive under the soft yellow light of bulbs at dusk. A world of diversity and hardship. A world that I love losing myself in every time I visit the city.
Shopping along Colaba Causeway and Fashion Street is an enchanting experience. Tourists may crinkle their nose at the thought of walking along pavements, looking at wares in rickety shops or even haggling with the vendors – but to me, the whole encounter poses a charm that subtly peeks out and entices you to immerse yourself. Would you dare?
I would say that no trip to Mumbai is complete without indulging in shopping on the pavement. As a child, I have run up and down Fashion Street, completely mesmerized by the numerous shops that stretch out along the sidewalk and the plethora of objects they contain therein. The calls of the vendors to try out their wares, my mother’s hand gently holding mine as she picked out a shirt and measured it against my shoulders (on the back, you can’t get an accurate read if the shirt will fit you otherwise), the bulbs that dangled from wires hanging on boughs of trees – all of it exudes a human warmth that cannot be found in the antiseptic, bright aisles of a supermarket. What’s more, you get just about every trinket as in a supermarket for half the price!
Over the years, I have learnt some valuable nuggets of information to shop along these strips- always start bargaining by quoting half(one-third for the foreigners) the price and slowly raise it to the price you would be willing to pay for it. NEVER accept the first price that the shop-keeper quotes – after all, even the vendor wants to enjoy the flavor in the banter of a good bargain. At some point, he won’t budge – if you are convinced you can get the object at your price, move on. If he knows you can get it for less, he will lower his price – you can reach an amicable compromise.
I learnt that Leopold’s café is a wonderful retreat from the heat of sun without meandering away from the heart of Causeway.
I learnt that at a good time to shop is morning – noon, to be precise. That’s when vendors have just set up shop. They are eager to make the first sale of the day – they might even give it to you at a lower price to start the day well.
I learnt that an even better time is at 4 pm, when parts of Causeway are full of export-reject wares that have hardly anything wrong with them. It’s a brand lover’s paradise. If you are lucky like me, you can pick up everything from Old Navy to Banana Republic for under $3 each. Make sure you check each piece thoroughly though – inside out and from all angles to your satisfaction before handing over the dough.
I learnt that large, intricate earrings dance beautifully on steel frames and twinkle incandescently at night. I also learnt that earrings may not appear the same in the day, much like the drunken mishap that happens be in your bed on some morning.
I learnt that even fashion designers and actors/actresses come to these streets to buy the chunky jewellery, stone studded ornaments, and very desi attire of kurtis with prints like “Aum” and pictures of gods & goddesses prints. Or they come simply to be inspired.
Above all, I learnt not to give up in the face of hardship. These vendors wake up each morning and slog till night to earn a decent living for their family. Yet, we customers are fickle and there is really no loyalty for one vendor’s wares over the next. Every hour is unpredictable. It’s a cutthroat world – each vendor trying to make a sale of an item that is to be identically found in ten others. Yet, they are hopeful and put their heart and soul into clinching each deal. And every new morning, they clean their shop, worship the premises and decorate her like a new, blushing bride – for a new day. For a new start.